Skin Sleuth: what is vitamin C and how does it work?

Vitamin C, scientifically known as ascorbic acid, should be a staple in your skincare routine. powerful antioxidant has anti-aging properties, protects the skin from free radicals and helps brighten the overall complexion. To find out how vitamin C works and what to look out for when incorporating this powerful ingredient into your skincare routine, we turned to Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, board certified dermatologist in New York. 

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant found naturally in citrus fruits and dark leafy greens. Overall, antioxidants help fight harmful free radicals that can lead to signs of premature skin aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration. “When added to your daily routine, vitamin C provides a range of benefits, from evening out skin tone to reducing pigmentation and protecting skin from the visible effects of pollution,” says Dr. Frank. "It's a powerful antioxidant that, when combined with SPF, can be an additional anti-UV booster." According to Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, daily use of 10% topical vitamin C for 12 weeks reduced photo prints (or measures of sun damage) and improved the appearance of wrinkles. 

What to Look for When Buying Vitamin C in Skin Care Products

When determining which vitamin C is best for you, consider your skin type, says Dr. Frank. “Vitamin C, in the form of L-ascorbic acid, is the most potent, but can irritate dry or sensitive skin,” he says. "For more mature skin, THD ascorbic acid is fat soluble and can be found in a more moisturizing lotion form." 

For it to be effective, your formula should contain between 10% and 20% vitamin C.  “The best vitamin C formulations also contain other antioxidants such as vitamin E or ferulic acid,” says Dr. Frank. Recommended for oily skin SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, which combines vitamin C with 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid. For dry skin try L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Vitamin C Serum, which combines 10% vitamin C with hyaluronic acid to attract moisture.

Vitamin C products are sensitive to light and should always be stored in a cool, dark place. They must be supplied in dark or opaque packaging to prevent oxidation. If your product's color starts to turn brown or dark orange, it's time to replace it, says Dr. Frank.

How to include vitamin C in your daily routine

Vitamin C is a great first step to your daily skincare routine. Start by applying Vitamin C Serum to freshly cleansed skin, top with a moisturizer, and then add sunscreen for enhanced UV protection. 

How do I know if my vitamin C serum is working?

“As with any topical application, it takes time to see the benefits,” says Dr. Frank. “With continued use and with the right product, you should see a brighter and more radiant complexion with a slight reduction in pigmentation. This will only happen with consistency and a combination of good vitamin C with sunscreen.”