Skin Care Microdosing: Everything You Need to Know About Applying Active Ingredients

Applying lots of active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, and exfoliating acids to your face may seem like a good idea (think smooth, glowing skin), but it won't give you the instant results you want. “Slow and steady is always the best approach,” says Dr. Michelle Henry, NYC Certified Dermatologist and Skincare.com Consultant. “Stronger is not always better, and the constant pursuit of [highest concentration] can actually cause inflammation or irritation, cause acne and cause hyperpigmentation". Before layering an excessive amount of the most potent retinol serums you may find, keep reading why microdosing can help you in the long run. 

What is skin care microdosing?

Microdosing sounds super complicated, but it's not. Simply put, microdosing is the art of adding active ingredients - proven by research to address a specific skin problem - into your skincare routine in small doses (and percentages) so you can gauge how your skin responds to them. These ingredients include retinol, which fights the signs of aging; vitamin C, which eliminates discoloration and brightness; and exfoliating acids such as AHA and BHA, which chemically exfoliate the skin. 

The key to microdosing is to first choose a product with a low percentage of active ingredients. “For beginners, I recommend starting with a low strength retinol of 0.1% to 0.3%,” says Dr. Jeannette Graf, NYC Certified Dermatologist and Skincare.com Consultant. "These small percentages can improve overall skin health for a natural glow." SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 и Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Microdose Serum both are great options for beginner retinols.

"If you're new to vitamin C, I recommend novice users start at 8% to 10%," says Dr. Graf. "In order to be biologically active and effective, at least 8% is needed." Try CeraVe Skin Vitamin C Renewal Serum Although the percentage is higher than recommended for beginners, it contains ceramides to repair and protect the skin barrier, which in turn helps to minimize irritation. 

Exfoliating acids can be a little tricky because the percentages of AHA and BHA vary greatly. “Early users of AHA should start at 8% for it to be effective compared to BHA, which require 1-2% to be effective without causing dryness or irritation,” says Dr. Graf. If you're still worried about irritation, try using a product with moisturizing properties, such as IT Cosmetics Hello Results Resurfacing Glycolic Acid Treatment + Caring Night Oil or Vichy Normaderm PhytoAction Anti-Acne Daily Moisturizer.

How to add microdosing to your routine

Choosing a product with a lower percentage of active ingredients is the first step, but don't apply it all over your face right away. First, test it on the spot to see if you have any adverse reactions. If you experience any skin irritation, it may mean that the percentage is still too harsh for your skin. If so, try a product with a lower percentage of active ingredients. And be sure to consult with your dermatologist to determine the game plan that works best for you. 

Once you find products that are effective, don't overdo it. Dr. Graf recommends using retinol only once or twice a week and vitamin C once a day (or every other day if you have sensitive skin). "ANA acids should be used every other day at the most," she says. "On the other hand, BHA should only be used once or twice a week."

In addition to studying the active ingredients, Dr. Henry recommends understanding how the ingredients react to your skin individually. "Split them over a week or two to gauge your skin tolerance before using them whole," she says. "Especially if you have sensitive skin."

When should you increase the percentage of active ingredients?

Patience is key when it comes to incorporating active ingredients into your routine. Understand that you may not see results for several weeks - and that's okay. “Each ingredient has its own time period to assess full effectiveness; for some it happens sooner than for others,” says Dr. Henry. "For most products, it can take four to 12 weeks to see results."

While you may start to see results with some active ingredient products after four weeks, Dr. Henry suggests continuing to use them. “I usually advise using your first product for about 12 weeks before increasing [the percentage] so you can fully appreciate the effectiveness,” she says. "Then you can determine if you need an increase and if you can tolerate an increase." 

If you feel that your skin has developed tolerance to the ingredients after 12 weeks and you are not getting the same results as at the beginning, higher percentages can be introduced. Just be sure to follow the same process as you did the first time - administer the higher dose first as a random test before fully incorporating it into your routine. And above all, don't forget that slow and steady skin care wins the race.