Dermatologist shares his best skin care tips for dark skin tones

There are certain skin conditions that most commonly affect people of color:hello hyperpigmentation- as well as skin treatments that should be avoided. But with all the misconceptions about skin color, including the incredibly false notion that people with darker skin shouldn't wear sunscreen, we thought we should clear things up with the right information. To do this, we enlisted board-certified dermatologist and Skincare.com consultant, Dr. Corey Hartman. From using the right laser treatments to adequate skin protection from UV rays, read Dr. Hartman's top skin care tips for dark skin tones.

TIP #1: AVOID HYPERPIGMENTATION

One of the most common skin conditions that affect skin color is hyperpigmentation. According to American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), hyperpigmentation is characterized by darkening of the skin due to an increase in melanin, a natural substance that gives skin its color or pigment. It can be caused by sun exposure, hormone fluctuations, genetics, and ethnicity. Another common skin condition in people of color is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can occur after injury or inflammation of the skin. Because acne, eczema, psoriasis, and other skin conditions can cause increased pigment production, Dr. Hartman's first piece of advice for people of color is to try to avoid triggers.

“Control acne, rosacea, eczema, and any other inflammatory skin conditions so hyperpigmentation can be reduced or prevented,” he says. “Patients with more melanin in their skin are more prone to discoloration after the inflammation subsides. Avoiding and maintaining these conditions is important to prevent discoloration in the first place.”

For information on treating acne, rosacea and eczema in adults, click on the relevant skin problem for answers to the most burning questions.

TIP #2: BEWARE OF SOME LASER TREATMENTS

Laser technology has come a long way in the last few years, making hair and tattoo removal a safe option for darker skin tones. However, skin rejuvenation in this category can still be improved. “While some fractional lasers are safe to correct melasma, acne scars, and stretch marks on colored skin, more ablative lasers such as CO2 should be avoided for fear of exacerbating hyperpigmentation that cannot be corrected,” says Dr. Hartman.

As a refreshing effect, CO2 lasers are fractional lasers that target the visible signs of aging by delivering energy into the deeper layers of the skin, ultimately stimulating the production of new collagen without causing damage to the surface of the skin. Although Dr. Hartman advises people of color to avoid carbon dioxide lasers, it is important for all people, regardless of skin tone or skin type, to consult a dermatologist or laser technician prior to having a laser procedure. Discuss any risk factors and possible side effects during your appointment.  

For more information on the different types of lasers and their benefits, check out our comprehensive guide to skin lasers here.

TIP #3: USE A BROAD SPECTRUM SUN CREAM

While it's true that dark skin tones may be less likely to burn compared to lighter skin tones, that's no reason to skip sunscreen. Melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, can affect anyone. Unfortunately, because many people of color mistakenly believe they are protected from the damaging effects of ultraviolet rays, skin damage and even some cancers can go unnoticed for some time. "Melanoma may go unnoticed in patients who are not instructed to look for skin changes," says Dr. Hartman. "By the time they are discovered, many of them have spread to later stages of development." It is also not uncommon for these skin cancer diagnoses. “Every year I diagnose 3-4 cases of skin cancer in blacks and Hispanics,” says Dr. Hartman. “Therefore, it is important for all skin types to adequately protect themselves.”

Keep in mind that melanoma is not always a direct result of excessive sun exposure. Genetics may also play a role in its development, Dr. Hartman said. “The incidence of melanoma can be inherited and does not always depend on exposure to the sun,” he says. “Not to mention that the most deadly form of melanoma has a higher mortality rate among people of color because it is often diagnosed at a later stage.”

Everyone should have an annual skin exam with a dermatologist. Between visits, monitor your moles and lesions for any changes. To find out what to look out for, we break down the ABCDE of melanoma here.