Derm DMs: is it possible to over-mask your skin?

Are you looking to improve your complexion? Need extra dose of hydration? Trying to clear rubbish from your pores? There is face mask for this. A masking session can do wonders for your skin, but how often should you really use them? To find out if it's okay to over-mask, we turned to a board-certified dermatologist. Dr. Kenneth Howe from Wexler Dermatology in New York. 

Is it possible to use face masks too often?

Here's the thing: It may be perfectly fine to use a face mask every night, but it can also cause irritation. It really depends on the type of face mask you use and your skin type. “Face masks are just another way to deliver emollients or actives into the skin,” says Dr. Howe. By holding the ingredients in a concentrated form on the surface of the skin, face masks enhance the effect of these substances. So if I'm worried about over-masking, I'm not worried about the mask itself, but what the mask delivers to the skin." 

For example, people with oily skin can become too oily if they apply too many moisturizing formulas. But it is masks containing exfoliating or detoxifying ingredients that Dr. Howe recommends being most careful with exfoliating face masks. “Exfoliating face masks remove dead skin cells by thinning the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin),” he says. “If the process is repeated too soon—before the skin has had time to heal—the exfoliation goes deeper and deeper.” Dr. Howe explains that when the stratum corneum thins, the moisture barrier breaks down, and the skin becomes sensitive and easily inflamed. 

While the standard recommendation is to use exfoliating masks (or serums) two to three times a week, the frequency with which you can tolerate masks may be more or less depending on your skin. “Experience will be your best guide here; pay attention to how your skin reacts to different products,” says Dr. Howe. 

Signs You're Hiding Too Much

“A common sign of overuse is irritant dermatitis, which manifests itself as dry, flaky, itchy, or red patches of skin,” says Dr. Howe. "Sometimes acne-prone patients react to this irritation by causing more pimples that look like a rash of small pimples." If you notice any of these reactions, it is an indication that overuse of medicated masks has weakened your skin's barrier. It is best to stop using them and stick to a gentle cleanser and moisturizer regimen such as Cerave Moisturizing Creamuntil your skin improves. If irritation persists, see a certified dermatologist.