Derm DMs: How much of each skin care product should I apply?

When it comes to applying skin care products, there are a few rules you need to follow in order for your products to perform to the best of their ability. You need layer of your skin care in a specific order, select the products suitable for your skin type and apply an adequate amount of each. But how much of each product number? The optimal serving size for skin care products goes way beyond cleanser, serum or moisturizer that you should apply. To break down everything you need to consider before you smear excessive amount of product of your entire face, we spoke with a New York-based board certified dermatologist and Skincare.com expert, Dr. Hadley King. Below, she talks about various factors to look out for, including texture and ingredients.

Why Texture Matters

We could explain the optimal amount of each product you should apply to your face (and we will!), but there are other factors that help determine this, such as texture. Take facial oils for example: you really only need to apply one drop because oils naturally have a more fluid consistency, making them easy to apply over a larger area. "Oils spread easily and a small amount can be used to cover the entire area," says Dr. King.

Similarly, you need to use the minimum amount of heavy moisturizers. Thicker creams such as L'Oréal Paris Collagen Moisture Filler Day/Night Cream, often have occlusive properties that are designed to create a protective seal on the skin to lock in hydration rather than being immediately absorbed into the skin. “The more occlusive a product is, the less it needs because it doesn’t absorb as quickly,” explains Dr. King. 

Why Ingredients Matter

You should also consider if your skin care product contains any ingredients that could potentially cause irritation, such as retinol. "It's generally recommended to use a pea-sized amount of topical retinoids," says Dr. King. "This is a sufficient amount to be effective in minimizing skin irritation." Using this amount is especially recommended if you are new to using retinol. It is also recommended to start with a product with a low concentration of retinol. Kiehl's Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Microdose Serum contains a very minimal (but effective) amount of retinol and contains ceramides and peptides that help gently resurface the skin so you're less likely to experience irritation. The same rules apply to vitamin C products - start with a pea-sized amount and only increase once your skin has gotten used to the ingredient. 

How to know if you're using too little (or too much) of a product 

To avoid adverse reactions and ensure you reap the full benefits of your products, it is imperative to avoid using both too little and too much. According to Dr. King, an obvious sign that you are not using enough product is that you cannot fully cover the area you have focused on. Digging a little deeper, if you are still experiencing dryness or redness after using a moisturizing product, this could also be a sign that you should use more. 

On the other hand, a clear sign that you're using too much product is "if you're left with a significant amount of residue that isn't absorbed into your skin," says Dr. King. When this happens, the product can clog pores and lead to breakouts and irritation. 

How much of each skin care product to use

There are many technical terms that dermatologists often use to describe how much of each skin care product to apply to the face, but to make it a little clearer, compare the optimal amount to the sizes of US coins, especially dimes and nickels. . 

For cleansers, facial exfoliators, and moisturizers, Dr. King recommends applying amounts ranging from a dime to a nickel on your face. When it comes to toners, serums and eye creams, the optimal amount is no more than a coin-sized spoon. 

For sunscreen, the minimum amount for your face is nickel. “Most people only put on 25 to 50% of the recommended amount of sunscreen,” says Dr. King. “You need to apply one ounce – enough to fill a shot glass – to exposed areas of the face and body; one spoon the size of a nickel in the face."