What is POA? Here's everything you need to know

If you look at the back of the bottle of your nearest facial cleanserthere are probably a ton of ingredients that seem familiar - from salicylic acid to glycolic acid, glycerin and more. However, one of the more unfamiliar ingredients you may encounter are PHAs, also known as polyhydroxy acids. This buzzy skin care supplement was under the microscope of skin care junkies in the second half of 2018 and into 2019, which is why we turned to a dermatologist. Nava Greenfield, MD, Schweiger Dermatology to find out exactly what this ingredient does - and here's what we found out.

What is POA?

PHAs are exfoliating acids, similar to AHAs (like glycolic acid) or BHAs (like salicylic acid), that remove dead skin cells and help prepare the skin for moisturizing products. PHA can be found in a myriad of skin care products, from cleansers to exfoliators, moisturizers and more.

What do PHAs do?

Unlike AHAs and BHAs, "PHAs appear to be less irritating to the skin and are therefore used for more sensitive skin types," says Dr. Greenfield. Because of their larger molecules, they do not penetrate the skin like other acids, which contributes to better tolerance. However, it's worth noting that while "their unique chemical structure makes them milder, they may also be less effective," says Dr. Greenfield.

Who can benefit from PHA?

PHAs are beneficial for a variety of skin types, but Dr. Greenfield strongly recommends that you talk to your dermatologist about skin concerns before using them. “While PHA products claim to be safe for atopic and rosacea-prone skin, always try a patch test before applying them all over your face,” she says. And depending on your skin tone, you'll also want to test PHA thoroughly, as "darker skin tones require more care with any type of acidic product because it can lead to hyperpigmentation."

How to include PHA in your skincare

As far as your routine goes, Dr. Greenfield recommends following the directions on the bottle. “Some daily moisturizers contain PHA as an ingredient that can be used daily, while others are meant to be used weekly as exfoliators,” she says.

Where to find PHA

As PHAs become more popular in skin care, they are also becoming more common in products. From glossy solution to Glow Avocado Melt Maskseems like every day there is a new skincare product that contains PHA. “PHA, BHA, and AHA can provide benefits for certain skin conditions when used correctly and appropriately,” Dr. Greenfield says, “but I have seen patients try products they buy online at home and end up with severe burns that are many. months and beauty treatments to heal,” she says, so it’s important to test them out and talk to your dermatologist before jumping into acid skincare — no matter how gentle.